Fashion business in Ukraine
Fashion business in Ukraine
Science and education ministry of Ukraine
National Mining University
Department of foreign languages
on a theme:
«Fashion business in Ukraine»
Kozeko A. V.
Ukrainian fashion: in expectation of a miracle
event boosts Ukraine’s nascent fashion industry. Made in Ukraine becomes
Pret-a-Porter Seasons of Fashion Week and new trends in fashion
UFW: a spicy treat for European fashionistas
List of references
“The fashion is an art, craft, vital
ideology, a kit of stamps, the big business, a self-expression method, a
distinctivefeature of an exclusive accessory: In general, the fashion is
Fashion is something we deal with
everyday. Even people who say they don't care what they wear choose clothes
every morning that say a lot about them and how they feel that day.
There are many reasons we wear what we
Protection from cold, rain
and snow: mountain climbers wear high-tech outerwear to avoid frostbite and
Physical attraction: many
styles are worn to inspire "chemistry."
Emotions: we dress
"up" when we're happy and "down" when we're upset.
Orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and Islamic women cover every part of
their body except their eyes.
tradition: judges wear robes, people in the military wear uniforms, brides wear
long white dresses.
the fashion industry developed first in Europe and America, today it is an
international and highly globalized industry, with clothing often designed in
one country, manufactured in another, and sold world-wide. The fashion industry
consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, principally fibres
and textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by
designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various
forms of advertising and promotion. These levels consist of many separate but
interdependent sectors, all of which are devoted to the goal of satisfying
consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in the
industry to operate at a profit.
Kerrey, a former American senator from Nebraska, puts it: “Fashion is a very serious
business”: it keeps much of the advertising industry going; it plays a vital
part in the retail trade; and, in a world of trade disputes and cotton
subsidies, it is politically sensitive.
The industry of a fashion of the world
is developed and filled by all niches of economy, it brings an essential share
of the income in the state treasury and is one of state income items. Fashion
business began to be guided by segments, to please with service quality. More
and more money starts to rotate in this industry.
Fashion is big business. More people are
involved in the buying, selling and production of clothing than any other
business in the world. Everyday, millions of workers design, sew, glue, dye,
and transport clothing to stores. Ads on buses, billboards and magazines give
us ideas about what to wear, consciously, or subconsciously.
In country where the fashion industry
has a relevant and important position for the local economy, production and
exporting of fashion goods, as well as fashion events like fashion weeks, trade
fairs and awards, boosts its economy and raises its annual revenue, positively
influencing other sectors of the local economy, like the service sector.
The Ukrainian fashion: in
expectation of a miracle
As designers believe, haute couture is
absent in Ukraine as well as in other Post-Soviet states. All collections are
lines of ready-to-wear clothes, pret-a-porter. Fashions-arts don't exist.
Undoubtedly, the Ukrainian fashion has
rather perspective future, there is a weight of preconditions to that.
1. Professional base. In Soviet period
light industry was one of leading industries of Ukraine. Even now professional
level of specialists at separate garment factories is so high that allows to
carry out orders on sewing from abroad. Creative developments, curves, fabrics come
here to be implemented by the skill of Ukrainian specialists.
2. Talented young designers. A lot of
various displays and competitions are conducted in Ukraine. The most known are:
the Ukrainian week pret-and-port «fashion Seasons», the International festival
of a fashion «Kiev podium», International contest of one dress «the Crystal
silhouette» and a lot of others. Constantly new names appear, and known
designers in the country work with known clients (for example, Ajna Gase,
Alexey Zalevsky, Anna Babenko, Sergey Byzov). Some Ukrainian fashion designers
are more known in Europe than in the homeland - designers look for more
adequate and solvent consumer. But many of them find methods to advance their
collections in the homeland too. One of the vivid examples - some fashion lines
and accessories, and also a chain store system of fashionable house Victoria
GRES (the fashion designer Victoria Gres). Very good example is Lilija
Pustovit. The talented designer, having connected the name with a trade mark of
the investor, has created design brand NB Poustovit - for today one of the most
successful Ukrainian fashion brands in the country, under the same scheme works
Nota Bene and Karavay. The close partnership with one more supplier of a fabric
has given the chance to develop successfully and to other brand - Golets by
Dolcedonna (the designer - Elena Golets), and also its more mass
"sister" - trade mark Dolcedonna.
3. Fresh ideas, unused historical base.
Great and tragic history of Ukraine, many-sided culture is eternally pure and
still for a long time an inexhaustible well of fresh ideas. Fashion is in
historical traditions, it is proved on world podiums.
But there are also serious difficulties,
sometimes insuperable contradictions...
1. Shortage of money. To present a
high-grade collection, the designer is forced to invest a considerable quantity
of money: to buy expendable materials - fabrics, accessories, to pay the
workers, services, an electricity, and many other unforeseen moments. Turnover
of the Ukrainian designers is so small that it is impossible to speak about
thousands, hundreds thousand monetary units of capital investments. Investors
are occupied, basically, in a policy and property repartition, therefore
fashion arises little interest.
2. Contraband. The clothes which get to
shops «French clothes», «the Italian clothes», etc. often squeeze into the
country through very narrow "corridors" in border. It is cheaper, as they
come, most likely, from sales, and owners of boutiques "save" on
duties and taxes. In such conditions Ukrainian masters can't expose competitive
prices, hence, they lose struggle for clients.
3. Unavailability of the consumer. The
Post-Soviet consciousness has often something in common with desire to carry
expensive, untwisted brands. The consumer isn't interested, whether the product
is produced in the third world countries, under the license or on direct
production, for the main thing is a recognized label. The solution lies in
correct public relations and in revision of the marketing policy.
4. Closeness of the world industry.
Clearly, nobody will feed up potential competitors. The Ukrainian designers
already received offers to work «as anonymous heads and hands» for known
Italian and French couturiers. Probably, it is necessary to agree to get
acquainted more closely with dream of a world fashion?
Unfortunately, the Ukrainian fashion is
not so popular and recognized among other countries, but nevertheless it is currently
developing and progressively moves to the world level. This aspiration of our
country is demonstrated by following examples.
Fashion event boosts
Ukraine’s nascent fashion industry. Made In Ukraine Becomes Fashionable
For many years, Ukraine’s fashion
industry lagged far behind its sophisticated counterparts elsewhere, defined by
creative designers, skilled manufacturers who translate designs into well-made
clothes, and a developed distribution network. Ukrainian fashion designers
essentially created clothing for art’s sake in an economy in which consumers
often had no choice but to wear inexpensive, and often outdated, ready-to-wear
imports from China or Turkey. Meanwhile, Ukrainian apparel manufacturers toiled
under cut-and-make schemes in which they produced clothes for foreign buyers,
but made only marginal profits themselves.
A USAID project identified the country’s
textiles and apparel industry as one of its most promising sectors. Working
with companies, industry representatives, and national bodies, USAID is
bridging the gap between Ukrainian designers and apparel manufacturers and
boosting the sector’s competitiveness in both domestic and foreign markets.
Irina Danilevska, organizer of Ukrainian
Fashion Week, the country’s premier fashion event, says that a fashion culture
has long existed in Ukraine, but that USAID’s help has finally given Ukrainian
fashion a shot at financial success.
USAID helped sponsor a major event at
the March 2006 Ukrainian Fashion Week: “Made in Ukraine: Trade Mark Defile.”
Fifteen Ukrainian apparel brands presented their wares and made contacts with
merchandisers. The event attracted 25,000 visitors, including designers,
buyers, wholesalers, and manufacturers in search of new partners to satisfy the
demand for stylish, trendy, and affordable clothes. Designers met with
producers who can make their designs realities; manufacturers saw new designs and
a chance to boost demand for their goods; and retailers took a step toward
maximizing profits by selling clothes made in Ukraine. The event was received
enthusiastically as a chance to see what domestic designers and manufacturers
had to offer. Negotiations were held on the spot. Most Ukrainian producers sold
all the goods they had showcased on the catwalk. They all increased their
market visibility and received great publicity. Ukrainian consumers, meanwhile,
will now be able to wear fashionable, affordable clothes that’s “Made in
The 17th Pret-a-Porter
Seasons of Fashion Week and new trends in fashion
The 17th Prat-a-Porter Seasons of
Fashion Week was held in early October 2005 at the ACCO International
Exhibition Centre which is located in one of the marvelous parks of Kyiv,
The first such fashion show was held in
Kyiv back in 1997, and by now these shows have acquired truly world
pret-a-porter standards and are held twice a year, in March and in October.
The lovers and followers of fashion saw
at the October pret-a-porter shows 30 best collections by fashion designers of
Ukraine, among who there were 2 Russian and 1 Georgian designers. Fashion,
political, show-business elite of Kyiv was well represented among the audiences
who numbered 19,000 people at all of the shows. Thanks to the live broadcasting
from music channel M1, all fascinating fashion-shows could be seen by millions
of viewers. Beside this, first time ever, the Ukrainian branch of Fashion TV,
Fashion TV-Ukraine, made it possible for its TV viewers, which are estimated to
number 577 million people worldwide, to see the Spring–Summer 2006 fashion
collections shown in Kyiv during the October pret-a-porter week.
In March 2005, a fashion show room, the
first of its kind, was opened in Kyiv, and thus the arrangement —
Designer–Buyer–Store, well known throughout the whole world, was established.
There are all indications that make it possible to say that the fashion
industry is becoming a potentially powerful business in Ukraine. During the
October pret-a-porter shows some purchases were made by buyers from Russia and
Italy, which point to the fact of Ukrainian designed clothes becoming
attractive to foreign buyers as well. Ukrainian fashion design is becoming an
export item. The Ukrainian Fashion Parade shown at the Eurovision Song Contest,
which was held in Kyiv in May 2005, the Day of Ukrainian Fashion held in St
Petersburg, and now the opening of the Fashion Show Room in Kyiv are all
indications of Ukrainian fashion going international. Incidentally, Jean Paul
Gaultier’s latest spring-summer collection was dedicated to Ukraine and had Ukrainian
The October pret-a-porter Seasons of
Fashion has amply demonstrated that the Ukrainian fashion designers create
pret-a-porter garments which are on a par with the best design clothes not only
of Russia and Georgia, whose designers showed their collections alongside the
pret-a-porter ones, but of other countries as well, and are liked well enough
to be purchased, not only looked at when they are shown on the catwalk.
Ukrainian Fashion Week
Autumn 2007 is the 10-year anniversary
of the Ukrainian Fashion Week. Creation of the National week of pret-a-porte is
an integral part of fashion business of any country. Following the best world
standards, Ukrainian Fashion Week is a guarantee of stable social attention
towards Ukrainian fashion, increase of trust of Ukrainians towards the label
"made in Ukraine".
Second half of the 90ies of previous
millennium... Svitlanka entered the 9th form, Andriyko became the freshman of a
textile college, in Lvov and Kyiv Olenka and Irinka are getting prepared for
the following examination... Ukrainian public world is getting used to
pronounce the phrase "week of pret-a-porte". 2007. Svitlana Bevza
made a debut with an independent fashion show, Andre Tan backs up his
popularity by the TV project, Helen Dats' has added to her victories on
international competitions presentation of luxurious collections on the
national podium, Iryna Karavay is working on her 9-th collection... Ukrainian
public celebrates the 10th anniversary of the Ukrainian fashion.
During these 10 years Ukrainian Fashion
Week and the designers became much more than the cultural barometers of
society: from participation in an inauguration of the President to creation
appearances of Eurovision's winners, from the garments of the heroes of popular
TV shows to partnership in the movies of Roman Balayan and Kira Muratova, from
the covers of magazines to participation in high-ratings TV projects, from
being among the judges (judging) of Miss Europe to foundation of the European
Council of Fashion - the influence of the Ukrainian fashion and its heroes on
the life of the country can be hardly overestimated.
"Ukrainian week of pret-a-porte is
the first among series of such actions, it will be held periodically, twice a
year, the main objective of it is the popularization of national fashion and
its producers. The Ukrainian Fashion Week is a cultural action of national
importance, which, in course of time, can grow into commercial, as it is
accepted all over the world. The action is planned as a domestic analogue of
annual weeks of "pret-a-porte", which take place in Paris, Milan,
London, New York and other capitals of the world. It will stimulate designers
to produce new collections not from time to time, but systematic, in accordance
with development of new directions and styles" - so sounded the quotation
from the press-release of the first Ukrainian Fashion Week, which took place in
November, 1997 in the apartment of Kyiv's Karaim's kenasa.
In 10 years the country has a chance to
analyze the results of these theses being fulfilled in real life. One can say
confidently, that today Ukrainian Fashion Week is the professional action of
national importance, which fully meets the standards of the European weeks of
Let us remind other projects which were
born within the framework of Ukrainian Fashion Week. The project founded in
March, 2003 "New Names" - shows of the best talented young designers
- became a flight bar for many designers already known for today.
The project "Fresh Fashion, founded
in October 2006, gave a possibility to young designers, who are already
well-known but whose business only starts to develop, to declare about
Appearance in the official schedule of
the Week a separate day of male fashion "Man's fashion day" let
thousands of men of the country be involved into fashion process, now their
right to be elegant and fashionable is protected by collections of designers.
In March, 2006 Ukrainian Fashion Week
gave a start to the project Trade Mark Defile. It introduces defiles of leading
trade marks of clothes, presented on the Ukrainian market. In September it took
place for the fourth time and was special in the way that, except traditional
participants, the second lines of designers (Oksana Karavanska, Anna Babenko,
Svitlana Tegin, Helen Oliynik) were presented.
For a festive year the hero of the
occasion prepared itself and the country a few presents: in May Ukraine became
a co-founder of the European Council of Fashion, in June the annual Holiday
Fashion Week was founded, in March of the coming year Artek Fashiоn Day's will be held.
Collections of the Ukrainian designers,
each of whom has atelier or studio, become more accessible for users. Those,
who love and want to purchase clothes of known Ukrainian brands, can find them
both in monobrand and in multibrand shops. In Ukraine there are: 21 shops in
Kyiv, 3 shops both in Lvov and in Odessa, 2 - in Kharkov, Donetsk,
Dnepropetrovsk and a 1 shop in Kherson. Ukrainian designers' brands can be
found also in Russia. There are two shops in each Moscow and Saint Petersburg
and one shop each in Saratov and Ekaterinburg.
We are proud of the fact that
collections of some participants of Ukrainian Fashion Week are sold in Europe:
Liliya Pustovit presents the brand of NB Poustovit in Bologna (Italy), London
(Great Britain), Zurich (Switzerland). The first line of "Andre Tan"
is sold in Paris (France) and Berlin (Germany). In the Italian city Al'ba
collection of Golets the first line is presented, in Monaco - collection of
Diana Dorozhkina, and in Amsterdam (Netherlands) - of Ilona Kuts.
Another quotation from the Manifest of
Ukrainian pret-a-porte in 1997 said: "The action is held with a wide
informative support of mass medias: 7 TV channels, 4 radio stations, 6
newspapers, 4 magazines".
In March, 2007 168 mass medias were
accredited for the Ukrainian Fashion Week.
Ukrainian Fashion Week is a unique
professional fashion event in Ukraine which fully meets the global standards of
prêt-a-porter fashion weeks. Ukrainian Fashion Week is held each season
featuring collections by the best Ukrainian and foreign designers as well as
The debut for Ukraine prêt-a-porter
Fashion Week was held in the autumn of 1997 and was the first event of its kind
in Eastern Europe. In March 2008 Ukrainian Fashion Week provided its catwalk to
designers form Ukraine and abroad for the 22nd time.
Apart from mainstream shows by renowned
fashion names Ukrainian Fashion Week also features its subprojects New Names
and Fresh Fashion. These projects have been launched to seek out and promote
Over the years they have provided a
constant influx of fresh blood into Ukrainian fashion and have reinforced
Ukrainian Fashion Week’s reputation as a breeding ground for young talent.
Ukrainian Fashion Week is both a show
and a community. Our guests include opinion leaders in nearly every area of
social life: show business, art, design, business and politics. In recent years
Ukrainian Fashion Week has been frequented by the Very cream of political
beau-monde of the country.
Ukraine’s first lady as well as other
prominent persons of Ukraine is among the guests of the Fashion Week. All in
all around 35 000 guests visit the Week during its seven days’ show program.
Ukrainian Fashion Week has always
displayed great concern about social problems facing Ukraine. Fashion Aid
project combined the efforts of Ukrainian designers and a Charity fund in a
joined campaign aimed at fundraising and promoting tolerance towards
Ukrainian designers created outfits
especially for the project, and then those outfits were sold during the charity
auction. Raised funds are directed to equip the hospitals and financial support
by deposit accounts for the sick children.
Ukrainian Fashion Week is extensively
covered by Ukrainian periodicals (from daily newspapers to glamour magazines)
and the international press. The total number of mass media accredited for
Ukrainian Fashion Week amounts to more than 200.
The UFW is usually taking place in huge exhibition
centers in Kyiv. Last two seasons and next two are held in Acco International.
It is an extraordinary hall in the picturesque Pushkin’s Park in the center of
27th UFW: a spicy treat for
During October 14-19, 2010, 27th
Ukrainian Fashion Week took place in Kyiv. The show, gathering hordes of
Ukrainian and foreign fashion experts and visited by almost 30,000 guests,
featured the presentation of 44 pret-a-porter collections, including those of
Victoria Gres, Nota Bene & Karavay, Andre Tan, Zalevskiy, Zinaida
Likhacheva, and others.
Among the special guests of this year's
show were the President of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion Mario
Bozelli, the founder of the company Global Fashion Management Ronald Denis and
the renowned French couturier Stephane Rolland. The show was broadcasted on the
World Fashion Channel.
The Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW) is a
unique professional fashion event in Ukraine the format of which fully meets
the global standards of pret-a- porter fashion weeks. The event debuted in the
autumn of 1997 and was the first of its kind in Eastern Europe.
The latest trends in the world of
fashion were showcased this year by 44 designer brands. By tradition, the
program of the Ukrainian Fashion Week 2010 was saturated by events taking place
on and off the catwalk. The goal of most of these projects has been to boost
the development and growth of the national fashion business.
Mr. Mario Boselli, the President of
National Chamber of Fashion of Italy and the special guests at UFW, was
impressed by Ukrainian designers and by the organization of the event and
expressed desire to work with them in future.
The youth fashion was presented at UFW
as part of a special project New Spirit, which presented to the lovers of all
things new and fashionable eight collections of young up-and-coming designers.
Mr Ronald Dennis, one of the most
authoritative names in the world of global fashion-industry and a business
trainer of world repute, has conducted a two-day work-shop.
The week-long show was closed in style
by Le Grand Fashion Show from the famous French designer Stephane Rolland. Le
Grand Fashion Show, which took place on October 22, featured breath-taking
runway presentation of the designer's haute couture collection, which last
summer triumphed on the Week of Haute Couture in Paris. The world-famous model
Karolina Kurkova was invited specially for the extravagant closing runway show.
Unfortunately, our state does not
actively take part in process of financing the fashion industry. There are a
lot of talented people in Ukraine and the country could earn a lot on these
talents. But unfortunately, it while is completely not interesting to our
Therefore now, designers search an exit
abroad, exposing their collections in multibrand boutiques of European
capitals, representing the collections in leading fashionable magazines,
participating in various shares and show.
Nevertheless, the Ukrainian pret-a-porter
week “fashion Seasons” takes place in Kiev twice a year since 1997, based by
RIA "Janko", magazine "Eve" and Fashion house "Sergey
Byzov". Last year the Ukrainian Week of Fashion acquired more accurate and
refined style; each season there are new names which set higher standards in
the organization and carrying out of this festival. Professional level of photo
models grows year after year, they quite often occupy prize-winning places at
The Ukrainian fashion houses on a bright
background of world "skyscrapers" only rise on spotlights podiums.
However, they are already potentially strong national elements. Even the most
courageous don't risk making forecasts concerning the future of domestic
brands. The Ukrainian market of design clothes is a field for experiments:
there are factors which advance the development, and others – don't give in to
any laws. One thing is possible to tell precisely, the talent of the maestro –
the fashion history testifies to it – doesn't remain without attention. If, of
course, there will be those who understand it...
LIST OF REFERENCES:
Molloy J. Dress for success
/ J. Molloy. - N. Y., 1975.